Autumn pruning of fruit trees and shrubs must be carried out annually. If this is not done, it will lead to a thickening of the crown. In the thickened crown, pests and diseases accumulate, which causes a decrease or even loss of the entire crop.
Basic rules for pruning fruit trees in autumn
If the tree has not been pruned for several years, it may be necessary to remove a large number of branches. But it is not advisable to do this at a time. It is best to prune these trees over several years.
When pruning fruit trees, it is very easy to damage the plant, especially when pruning young trees. therefore when starting pruning, you need to be clearly aware of which branch and why exactly it needs to be deleted.
The consequences of incorrect pruning of young trees are very difficult to correct, sometimes even impossible.
When pruning fruit trees, you must adhere to the basic rules:
- For one cut you cannot remove a large number of large branches at once... This can significantly weaken the tree and even cause disease or death in the future.
- Branches with signs of disease broken off or dry are always removed first.
- After removing large branches tree wounds must be covered with garden varnish.
- Always try to use a sharp and high quality tool, with a blunt instrument, you can inflict lacerations that will heal for a long time in the future.
- Try use only clean tools, firstly, it is easier for them to work, and secondly, a dirty tool can harm the plant.
- When pruning tall trees try to use ladders and stepladders... Or a special tool designed for cutting branches at a height. Climbing the branches of trees is not recommended, this action can cause serious damage to the tree.
Methods for pruning shrubs and trees
There are two main ways to prune shrubs and fruit trees:
- Shortening;
- Thinning.
Both pruning methods are performed with the aim of redistributing nutrients to the branches of the tree.
Pruning produces stimulation and intensive growth of shoots, favorably affects the correct formation of the plant. Pruning leads to a reduction in the number of buds that consume food, the path from the root system to the leaves of the plant is shortened, which stimulates growth.
Shortening - this is a partial removal of the upper part of the shoot. Pruning stimulates the growth of young shoots and the development of buds located below the cut, as well as increases the thickness of the branches.
Thinning - this is a complete deletion of branches. This pruning prevents the crown from thickening, prevents the development of diseases and infestation by pests, and therefore increases the yield.
Pruning ornamental and berry bushes
The very first pruning of shrubs is carried out during planting. Young 2-3 year old seedlings shorten the shoots to 10 - 15 cm, no more than 3-5 buds are left on one shoot.
With proper care, young shoots will grow from these buds in the first year.
Pruning shrubs in the fall, all diseased, broken or dry, as well as shoots that are close to the ground must be removed. If in the first year of development the berry shrub developed poorly and gave a weak growth, then all shoots must be cut off almost to ground level, leaving only 3-5 cm above the surface.
In the second year of life, the shrub should form several more new powerful shoots.... In the second year of its life, the shrub should grow several more young powerful branches. In the fall, the shrub is also sanitized with the removal of diseased, broken or dry branches.
When removing shoots, pruning is done as close to the base as possible.
In the spring, you need to once again pay attention to the condition of the bush and, if necessary, make another sanitary cut.
Please note that the spring cutting of the bush is done before the start of sap flow and swelling of the buds.
In the fall, sanitary pruning of the shrub again, also cut off excess branches. On average, an adult and well-developed bush should have from 10 to 15 branches of different ages.
When pruning shrubs in the future, it must be remembered that the branches grow more intensively in the first year of life, and then the growth rate is greatly reduced. And by the age of five or six, the growth of branches practically stops.
Shrubs with abundant branching shoots are cut off a little. Shrubs with medium branching branches are cut at 25% of the length, and with a weaker one, about half of the shoot is cut off.
Shrub formation must be completed 4 to 5 years after planting.
A healthy shrub should generally have the following shoot ratio:
- 4 - 5 annual branches
- 3 - 4 biennial branches
- 2 - 3 three-year branches
- 2 - 3 four- and five-year branches.
Branches older than 5-6 years are recommended to be removed completely.
Shrub shoots are removed depending on their physiological state, direction and strength of growth. And this ratio can change.
Never forget about renewal and rejuvenation of the shrub - your future harvest will depend on this work.
How to trim your hedge yourself?
What will the hedge look like in the future, depends on correct shaping in the first year, after her disembarkation. Therefore, the correct formation of the hedge must be started soon after disembarkation.
Many amateur gardeners do not cut young shrubs for the first few years, but this is wrong. To exclude a large upward growth of the plant, correct pruning must be carried out in the first year of life.... This will stimulate good formation of new root growth. If this is not done, the lower part of the hedge may be exposed, and the top will be thickened.
Many plants that are used for hedging, such as hawthorn, snowberry, privet, comb, and mirabelle, are upright. Therefore, they especially require good pruning soon after planting.
Cut all plants shortly after plantingleaving shoots no more than 15 cm above the ground. This will stimulate the regrowth of powerful young basal layers.
The next year, another strong pruning of the plant must be done. This will ensure the correct formation of the dense crown. If the density of the shrubs seems to you insufficient, you can carry out strong pruning again next year..
Third and further yearswhen the formation of a strong root growth ends, only cosmetic decorative pruning of plants is needed. The interval between pruning depends on the type of plant and a little on the weather conditions.
How to prune a fruit tree yourself?
Self-pruning of trees must begin with the removal of dry, diseased, as well as old branches. It is these branches that reduce the yield of garden trees.
In order not to accidentally cause unnecessary injury to the fruit tree, it is necessary to immediately inspect the branches and determine the number of branches that need to be removed. It will be better to cut one large branch than to cut several small ones.... When pruning branches, it is not recommended to leave the stumps on the trunk, but to remove the entire branch to the base at the trunk itself.
If you are going to prune a fruit tree in the fall, you should, initially, prepare the tool. Take care of the sharpness of a hacksaw, secateurs or scissors. The level of injury to the plant depends on their severity. The better the garden tool is sharpened, the less damage will be done to the tree trunk.... A sharp tool, they will do their job much better.
To prevent the reproduction of various parasites and to prevent the development of tree infections, branches that remain after pruning are recommended to be burned. And the remaining ash can be used as fertilizer. Wood ash contains large amounts of phosphorus and potassium.
Even old trees, with proper care, are capable of producing tasty and high-quality fruits. For this one should remove unnecessary branches and form the crown of the tree with a bush... In this case, it is necessary to leave only the strongest and youngest branches.
Correct pruning of fruit trees and shrubs is the key to a good harvest.... One has only to master all the intricacies of gardening once and then apply and improve their skills in practice.