Blueberry propagation is a great way to complement a garden's berry collection or to rejuvenate an aging plant. Wherein it is important not only to increase the number of bushes, but also to maximize the preservation of genetic traits... This is possible only with vegetative reproduction, which must be carried out correctly and in a timely manner.
Breeding methods for garden blueberries and timing
Blueberry breeding methods are divided into two main groups. It is sexual, which is carried out by seeds and vegetative - by parts of the plant. Seed propagation at home - painstaking work, which includes the rejection of unusable and selection of promising seedlings. This can take several years. Therefore, this method is practiced only for breeding purposes for the development of new varieties.
Vegetative (asexual) reproduction methods allow you to preserve the varietal characteristics of blueberries. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages, so gardeners choose the most suitable method for an individual case.
Reproduction of garden blueberries by cuttings occurs due to the regeneration process, during which new adventitious roots are formed from the tissues of the stem. Shoot growth occurs from the available buds.
When choosing a method of green cuttings, attention is paid to the age of the blueberry shoots. As the shoot becomes lignified, metabolic processes decrease, as well as water content and water-holding capacity of tissues, which are important conditions for the formation of new roots. Thus, the planting material from green shoots develops faster, gives a greater percentage of plant survival after rooting.
Planting material from certain parts of blueberries has different degrees of rooting. Cuttings from coppice shoots have the highest root-forming ability... Roots of coppice shoots are formed from adventitious buds, which are characterized by an increased metabolism, which accelerates the formation of new cells. This increases root formation by 3-4 times compared to cuttings taken from the fruiting zone. Planting material is harvested at the end of June, at the beginning of July.
Blueberries can also be propagated by lignified cuttings... Planting material can be stored for a certain amount of time under optimal conditions. Therefore, lignified cuttings are often harvested for transportation over long distances or for planting for the next season.
There is no specific time to guarantee the best results for cutting cuttings. The opinions of many agronomists are divided on this score. The main condition for the procurement of high-quality planting material is a healthy shoot and dormant buds. In regions with severe winters, it is recommended to harvest cuttings at the beginning of winter, and for other regions it is permissible from December to the first ten days of March.
Blueberry seedlings can be obtained using cuttings... The essence of this method is to root the stem without separating it from the mother plant. This is one of the natural methods of plant propagation, the technology of which is available to any gardener. The disadvantage of this type of reproduction is the length of the process. Rooting cuttings can last 2-3 years... The ideal time for this method is during the blueberry growth period, so it runs from mid-April to September.
Blueberries are one of the most difficult berry crops to breed. This is due to the biological characteristics of plants - low root-forming ability. The best results are distinguished by propagation methods by cuttings.
Propagation by cuttings
The methods of harvesting, rooting of green and lignified cuttings have differences and similarities.... Regardless of the planting material, the gardener must carry out the procedure with minimal disruption to the biological characteristics of the plant.
Harvesting green cuttings
With this method of reproduction, compliance with the optimal timing is of particular importance. This is the period from June 20 to July 10.
Cuttings from insufficiently ripe shoots often suffer from drying out, are affected by diseases and fungal spores. The leaves of such cuttings are underdeveloped and cannot supply the stem with sufficient nutrients. With a later harvesting of cuttings, nutrients enter the growth points, which leads to their loss, affects the formation of roots.
Shoots ready for grafting have springy, unbreakable stems and dark green leaves. For cutting cuttings, strong shoots of the first and higher orders of branching with a height of 6-12 cm are chosen... They are broken off by hand with a piece of wood and bark from last year's growth (heel).
Cutting preparation:
- processing of the lower part of the cutting (removal of exfoliated bark);
- removal of 2-3 lower leaves (1/3 of the length);
- trimming the remaining leaves by 1/3;
- treatment of the cuttings with growth stimulants
The cuttings are planted on a prepared ridge in greenhouse conditions.
Harvesting lignified cuttings
For harvesting cuttings, last year's shoots that are completely ripe and not damaged by frost are chosen formation or replacement with a diameter of 0.5-1.2 cm. Cuttings of a larger diameter root poorly, and smaller ones give weak plants. Shoots with a large number of flower buds are not suitable for reproduction, and their removal does not give positive results either.
Branches cut in winter are stored in boxes filled with peat or sawdust and aeration holes. The boxes are placed in a dark, well-ventilated room at an air temperature of 0 ° С- + 5 ° С... Cuttings are cut at the end of March or in April. The lower parts of the branches are distinguished by the best root-forming ability.
Cutting cuttings is done with a sharp pruner, avoiding punching and damage to the bark.
Slicing stages:
- handle length 10-12 cm;
- the lower cut is made under the kidney with a slight slope;
- upper cut 0.5 cm-1 cm above the kidney;
- the stalk is treated with growth stimulants.
If there is little planting material, it is permissible to cut cuttings of a smaller size, but with the condition of at least 3 vegetative buds.
Rooting the cuttings, planting and care
Green and lignified blueberry cuttings are rooted in ridges or boxes, creating greenhouse conditions for them. The rooting place can be of any convenient size, but with a height of at least 15-20 cm... The ridge is placed on a layer of drained soil, expanded clay or coarse sand. As a room, you can choose a greenhouse or equip removable frames with glass (polyethylene) over the ridge.
The most optimal substrate for the development of cuttings is a mixture of high-moor peat with river sand (1: 1). One day before planting the cuttings, the substrate is sieved and spilled with warm water. The prepared ridge is covered with plastic wrap to completely saturate the peat with water.
Lignified cuttings are planted according to the 5x3 scheme, and green ones according to the 5x5 scheme, leaving 1-2 buds on the surface of the substrate... The entire rooting period is maintained at a temperature + 20 ° С- + 25 ° С and light moisture of the substrate.
The roots of the cuttings begin to form after 4 weeks. During this period, plants begin to gradually accustom themselves to drier air, periodically removing the film and glass. 2-3 months after planting, glass or film shelters are completely removed and fed with ammonium sulfate (10 g / m2).
Young plants are left to winter at the rooting site. To do this, they are mulched with a 5 cm layer of peat, sawdust or fallen leaves. In the spring, after warming up the soil, they are transplanted to a permanent place.
Even with proper harvesting of cuttings and providing the necessary conditions, rooting rates for blueberries are kept at a very low level of 25-35%. These indicators can be increased by 2-3 times with the help of special care - treatment of cuttings for 12-24 hours with a growth regulator - an aqueous solution of indole-butyric acid (50 g / 1 l).
Reproduction by layering
Also, as mentioned above, blueberries can propagate by layering. This method is used for propagation of young bushes, which have few shoots for grafting or for varieties that are poorly rooted when grafting.
Before that, the trunk circle under the mother plant is loosened. Pick up strong and healthy shoots. Opposite the selected branches from the base of the bush, a furrow is formed with a depth of 6-8 cm and a length equal to the length of the shoots... Sprinkle with water.
Annual growths of branches are shortened by 1/5 and placed in the furrow. Each section of a branch with two developed buds is fixed to the soil with wire hooks. The furrow is covered with sawdust.
After vertical shoots reach a height of 8-10 cm, they need to be spud to half the height... For this, a mixture of peat and sawdust (1: 1) is used. This procedure is repeated 2-3 times as the shoots grow back. Throughout the summer, the soil is kept moist and loose. The shoots that have grown in the current year will form a full-fledged root system in 2-3 years, after which they are transplanted to a permanent place.
Blueberries are a relatively new crop in Russian horticulture, the agricultural techniques of which are not fully mastered by gardeners. The secrets of successful cultivation are based on the correct selection of varieties that are highly adaptable to the harsh conditions for this crop.... By planting varieties suitable for the region, you can maintain your home blueberry plantations for many years, propagating them vegetatively.